![]() These features are typically ommited on civilian/export semiauto Saiga rifles. Despite the fact that the uninitiated tend to label any converted Saiga an “AK-103”, in reality a factory AK-103 has a folding buttstock, not a fixed buttstock.Ī key feature of this particular rifle are the magazine well dimples and extra receiver stampings which suggest a military heritage. but in the case of a detailed AK-103 conversion there is a lot of work involved, which in my opinion more than qualifies as a “build”. When starting with a fully functional Saiga sporter, it's more common to say that one “converts” a Saiga rather than one “builds” a Saiga. Despite the cosmetic differences, lurking inside every Saiga sporter is the true DNA of a Kalasnikov rifle. The Saiga sporters are imported in a ban (or 'sporting') configuration, which basically means that they have been neutered of all features which would lend the outward appearance of a military firearm. Civilian Saigas are built at the Izhmash factory (the home of the AK) – the same factory which produces 'real' AK-103 rifles for military export. ThirtycalĮ-MAIL: This rifle started life as a 7.62x39 Saiga sporter rifle. Without the information and photos I found here, and the outstanding AK replicas of Ted Marshall and Chris Butler (as a photographic model), I don't think I would have been able to build this AK-103 clone. Of great help was the excellent documentation and photos I found here at Tantal's website. I spent about 2 months combing the internet, searching for authentic reference photos, and reading every forum entry I could find on the subject of the Izhmash AK-103. Not only is the AK-103 a modern 7.62mm beauty, it's also a thoroughly documented variant. This was officially my “indoctrination” into the world of AK home-building, and I'm glad I picked an AK-103 clone as my first project. Since completing this project, I've built several other AK variants – but this AK-103 clone is still my favorite. It's very fun to collect and shoot Kalashnikov rifles, but for me it's even more fun (and satisfying) to research and build them. His desire and ability to meet the highest quality standards is outstandingly apparent, and I thank him for the fine images and personal step-by-step build notes you see here! -Tantal His professional assembly and detailing are a testament to the deep knowledge, skills and masterful techniques he has developed and successfully employed. Redirecting out attention somewhat, this article is geared more towards the DIY enthusiast and I can think of no better example of the outstanding results accomplished by hard working individuals than this super clean Ak-103 project Thirtycal recently completed. In the past, many builds presented here at Avtomats-In-Action were assembled with the help of professional commercial builders. Done right you will have a nice tight fit and smooth action.I want to introduce a very talented builder to kick off a special article series aimed at the do-it-yourself segment of the hobby. You will find that the rivet actually upsets and fills the hole tightly so the last step is to take the tongs to the slack tub and work them rapidly in the water as they cool. I heat everything at once, come to the anvil, center the rivet in the tongs over the pritchel hole and then head the rivet alternating sides with each few blows to keep the heat even. I assemble the tongs cold, insert the rivet, and then give each side a few glancing blows on the end of the rivet to keep it from falling out in the fire. My tongs are drilled but you can hot punch the holes also. Most of my tongs are just mild steel so I use 3/8 mild round stock cut to the length I want for the rivet. I make hundreds of pairs of tongs every year and like others have said, use the same material the tongs are made of. can i simply use mild steel? or do commercially made rivets more then that? I am mid way through making some tongs and want to make the rivet. ![]()
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